Manual Brake Users I need help...

[Rick 91GT]

Ran the manual brakes all year long, noticed now that the car is aprt my rotors saw a lot of heat, blue in spots. I run the stock master cylinder, ASP adapter with bent rod for correct ratio, stock brakes Rebestos pads (top model). With trapping 128mph it was a liottle hard to get it stopped but really no big problems, never felt the brakes fade. I was looking at going to the Aerospace set-up but my car will still see some street duty. I have heard as long as you get the upgraded rotors you can run them on the street. How are they for a Saturday night cruise? Is there anyone using stock style brakes with a good aftermarket pad, if so which pads are you using? Where did you get them.

I plan to go 130mph plus next year and I want to be able to stop...

[kanepsycho]

If you are using the power brake master cylinder, I am probably wrong but the cylinder bore may be too small. I forgot who had a good description of this subject in their catalog: Stainless Steel Brakes, Wilwood, or another company.........sorry.

Are the upgraded Aerospace rotors thicker than the race only rotors?

[ultraflo]

Originally posted by Rick 91GT
Is there anyone using stock style brakes with a good aftermarket pad, if so which pads are you using? Where did you get them.

When I had stock style brakes, I had Raybestos Super Stop pads and shoes...

The Aerospace setup, when used with the proper 1 1/8" dia. bore master cylinder, will work fine for a Saturday night cruise. I went a little bit more into detail with my setup in the thread you started over at Hardcore50.com ;)

[Larry Palmer]

If you don't mind me asking,what mastercyl:/brake pedal rod did you use?

Thank you ,
Larry.

[ultraflo]

I went ahead and bought the Aerospace manual conversion kit. It comes with the proper 1 1/8" dia. bore master cylinder, firewall adapter plate, and adjustable push rod. The instructions specify that you need to redrill the attachment point of the push rod on the pedal for the proper ratio. I had to rig up an alternative way to activate the brake lights, as this kit doesn't have any provisions for hooking up the stock brake light actuator... I welded a tab to the housing the pedals bolt into and used a GM style actuator... I can get you some other pics, if you want. This in one I already have at my webpage, which doesn't help my explanation for the brake light deal, but you can see how the I set everything up as far as the engine bay goes.

http://members.mustangworks.com/ultraflo/rls/master_cylinder.jpg

[Larry Palmer]

Thank you for the info:,

Nice web site!

Good luck ih 2003.

Larry

[Rick 91GT]

Thanks for the info Ryan and others..this new combo should just be straight out nasty so I need to get it stopped. Looking for low 9's on the juice.
Ryan, can you shoot me your phone number I'd like to ask you a few questions about that sensor and master cylinder. rick91gt@suscom.net How's the new motor coming?

[Larry Palmer]

ultraflo,

I have aerospace brake system on my 85 stang front,rear,master cyl:, called areospace about the factory Proportioning valve they say not to use it, And i see you have used yours.
Whats the difference?

Thanks
Larry.

[ultraflo]

The difference is that I'm probably going to have to re-do my setup :D ...thanks for that tid-bit of info, that they so conveniently left out of the instructions.

How are you doing yours, exactly? Run the line off the front of the m/c directly to the rear, and from the back of the m/c to the line lock 'noid, then 'T' off the line-lock? Damn! ...it's always something. :rolleyes:

FWIW, I modified the proportioning valve to work with a set of Baer brakes that were on the car previous to the Aerospace setup...

I'll give those jokers a call tomorrow and see what they have to say... I'm getting kinda pissed as I type, LOL.

However, Larry, I very much appreciate your pointing that out for me... I'll get back with ya in this thread once I talk w/ Aerospace.

Can you elaborate any more on what they told you, btw?

later,
-Ryan

[nitrousdave]

I just thought I'd throw my .02 in on this one. I've got a somewhat low buck set-up on my car that has been working great: master cylinder from the old SVO stangs ( 1 1/16 or 1 1/8 bore can't remember exactly which) TCI line lock, Allstar proportioning valve (same one as wilwood only cheaper), Wilwood rear brakes (not cheap, but worth every damn penny!), 5 lug rotors from a lincoln up front with 87-up spindles, lincoln calipers because they'll bolt on and have almost a 1/2" bigger piston, a good set of pads up front, an adapter plate I milled out myself for the fire wall, and I tore apart the old power booster took both rods out of it and cut to approximate length welded together and presto had my new adjustable brake rod. Used the same pedal too, didn't need to adjust angle or anything. Don't get me wrong the pedal is stiff, but doesn't require much pressure for anything but all out runs. Lines come out of M/C for the front right to the line lock then out of that right on to the front brakes. Rears come out of the M/C through the prop. valve then back to the brakes. Pretty simple and I have the prop. valve adjusted for max. pressure to the rears. I run 125 mph in the 1/4 currently (haven't sprayed at the track yet) and I just step on the brakes and I slow down, no drama, no wheels locking up. I've also done informal :rolleyes: testing with the spray and @135-140 they still stop awesome. I just can't complain about my brakes. Later,
Dave