...be aware ! ... rear axle breakage...

[JeffK228]

.....especially STICK shift cars!! Maybe I missed something, but the welds at the axle tube/center section break.... and the result AIN'T purty !! (got pix if you want 'em ! ) Anyone at the Snowbird Nats in Bradenton and saw my copper '84 conv on the jack at the head of staging?? Lemme know if anyone else knows about this prob, please. Just for nothin' .... we need to make a weld ALL around the tube/housing junction. I'm gonna fix mine tomorrow..... :) Lemme know if I can help, and thnx NMRA.

[Stangfireman]

So you're saying you've never heard of welding the axle tubes before?
Watch how you do it. They can warp and you won't know it until it's too late.

[91bluegt]

easist way to do it is in 1/6's or 1/8's. just do a section, and stop, so that it has time to cool down. what are you running in your car?

[Larry Geddes]

Jeff,

I have been through this 2 times. You will get different opinions on the fix. Most racers weld the axle tubes. Keep in mind that you are welding cast to mild steel. You need an experienced welder to do this correctly. (the bead must penetrate and do it's intended job,not just be pretty) There ARE tales of warping the housing setup. A jig would be the ultimate piece to have on hand.

Once a housing is damaged I would find a virgin housing and start over. What a hassle?

I chose to bolt my tubes rather than weld them. I drilled 3 holes on each side in the cast center flat areas. Tapped 3/8" fine thread and sealed with old black Permatex#1. Works great!

My first housing twisted the right side tube, causing the pinion to go upward 30+ degrees. This pushed the driveshaft into the fresh Liberty T5 breaking the mainshaft and tail housing. Lots of additional expense etc.



My second housing cracked on both sides of the cast center section. This actually pushes the cast section FORWARD and bends the entire unit in the middle. I caught this when I noticed a leak under the car down in Reynolds season before last. Could you imagine the carnage if this had let go off the line or about 60 feet out?

I found a brace kit made by Mid South Race Cars that bolts and welds on the front of the housing that greatly strengthens against this type of failure. ($110) BTW, the rear braces are not as effective as this front type. This kit is based from the Dana 60 Hemi cars use. Can we imagine the stress on a stick shift Hemi launch?

I would encourage all 8.8 owners to inspect their tubes for ANY leakage. The tell-tale sign of dampness especially at the "plug welds" means you are soon to lose the housing. Ask Dave Lanman or Tim Duncan. Both experienced this in 2002.



Please forgive the long read, but you asked. We must give our experiences to hopefully save a fellow racer from expense or other troubles. Good Luck!

[L8/93LX]

I made something up very similar to what Larry was talking about. I thought I heard something about Mid South not answering phone calls or in the middle of moving or something. Anyways check out www.paulshp.com , in the Mustang section scroll down a bit and you will see his version of the axle brace.

[JeffK228]

......Many thanks to ALL who answered me. I'm debating having Pro Motion in S. Fla do this for me, as they're the ONLY ones I've found with a jig for the 8.8. I have a mild bracket car which only runs around 12.40's and Walt a P/M said this shouldn't happen until 10.80 of so. But my car leaves extremely hard for it's ET, pulling the wheels 8 inches or so and cutting low 1.60 short times. If anyone has anymore advice concerning this--or other-- breakage, please let's let everyone know, as I think Larry stated. Again, thanks to all, and to NMRA.

[DAVE_308]

Like Larry stated I did have rear axle troubles. I did catch the problem before it completely broke. My problem wasn't twisting it was bowed forward I have yet to take a measurement on how bowed it is but it is noticable to the naked eye. I would guess 1/4" to 1/2" forward bow.
My current 8.8 has been welded braced thanks to Duke Alley! and also to Larry Russell @ Jegs I dont belive that I will ever make enough power to break it.
This is deffinately a case of fix it before it breaks!
Later. David Lanman

[JeffK228]

Guys....while I have this thing apart I'm re-inforcing the lower contro arm torque boxes. Any one weld or somehow fix the UPPER arm boxes. As long as this things apart, I'd like to do it correctly. Let me know who's done what to the uppers. please. Thanks again...

[Stangfireman]

Jeff,
I welded both upper and lower torque boxes. I also use Wild Rides Battle Boxes on both. I have a few pics of the lower boxes welded up on my website. Sorry that I didn't take any of the uppers, but they are basicly welded the same way.
Here's a link. Torque Box (http://www.stangfireman.com/Torque-Box.html)

[JeffK228]

Stangfireman.......many thanks for the info. We are welding the uppers as we speak. should do the job. BTW...what does your car run ? Thanks, Jeff228

[Stangfireman]

Car was slow. I ran a best of 12.09@111 with a 150 shot on a 140K mile stock motor without much except a mass air meter. The first things I did to the car when I bought it were rear suspension, battle boxes, roll bar (Which I need to upgrade), spool and axles. I was taught that you can't build a good house without a good foundation. So that's where I started. Unfortunately I put the car on jack stands last Nov. (2001) with the intention of racing this year after I freshened things up. But it seems to have snowballed into alot more as it's still sitting there.