Lower Control Arms

[D1-R Stocker]

What lower control arms are people running in DR? I have double adjustable uppers, spherical bushings, and an anti-roll bar and am looking for new lowers. Thanks.

[TopFuelTy]

I'm using southside lowers, seem to work well.
Ty
DR 10024

[oRaNgeT-76]

Wildrides adjustable lowers car hooks hard just cant seem to handle the power under full boost .......hehehe
an apparent problem in most turbo cars ......

www.wildridesracecars.com

[BIGBOB@JESEL]

WE CHANGED FROM SOUTHSIDE BARS TO WILDRIDES ADJUSTABLE LOWERS AND THE CAR HOOKS BETTER THAN EVER (WENT FROM MID 1.5 60 FTS TO LOW 1.4'S)

BOB MCDONALD
9.04 @ 154 MPH / 1.44 60 FT

[93MustangLX306]

I run the South Sides, but I think with the addition of Double Adjustable uppers, you will be able to control pinion angle and. Also with the spherical bushings you will help prevent axle bind.


You should be OK, and with the Southsides, make sure you have your ride hieght, and bracket angle correct or it can work against the sole purpose of the solid lowers.


Scott K

[D1-R Stocker]

Thanks for the help. By the way Big Bob, what Procharger do you run and in what belt configuration? You do run a Procharger right? With cogs or a big serpentine. Thanks again.

[BIGBOB@JESEL]

WE RUN A PROCHARGER F-1R WITH A COG PULLEY SET UP


BIG BOB
9.04 @154

[oRaNgeT-76]

the problem i had with southsides when i ran them prior to having Wildrides set my car up with there complete suspension system, was that the southsides hit the radial tires way to hard and making it hard to control the launch of the car.....also the car is about 100X smoother throughout the run . at top end the car is straight as an arrow with no sway at all.



Give Wild rides a call and have them set you up with a nice kit.

Alex

[D1-R Stocker]

I have kind of a mixed up setup. UPR anti-roll bar, Racecraft double adjustable uppers, UPR spherical bushings, Eibach drag springs, and Lakewood 50/50 shocks. Should I rethink all of it or just add the Wildride lowers? Thanks for the info Bob, hopefully I will have the same for the opener. D1-R for sale, any takers?

[SHOWTIME]

NO 2 CARS ARE THE SAME ON DRAG RADIALS. BIG D WENT 1.31 60FT. WITH SOUTH SIDES. IVE BEEN THE BEST OF 1.46 WITH STOCK.

[93MustangLX306]

You really didnt touch on what you are running for front suspenion. If you are running 70/30's, 90/10's or maybe an adjustable front stront or coil -over that can also play a big factor in how the car launches and responds down track.

Your chassis tune-up is going to be a big factor in putting power to the ground, especially with a drag radial tire.


Scott K

[D1-R Stocker]

Try this, 90/10 lakewoods, 175 # coil over springs, CM k-member, and CM control arms. Does that help?

[93MustangLX306]

CM, I am going to assume is chromemoly. That will help with weight yes, But a tip, if your going to be going to tubular K-Member look into a Performance Automotive unit. They offer a 30inch wide unit that is a great fit, and will give you more room to allow header clearance.

Scott K

[Spence]

SHOWTIME is right, every car is different, the biggest thing is the suspension geometry, this all depends on ride height, with a stock height car the southsides work good, once you lower the car the stock location arms work best. with a lowered car and southsides the car will have a tendacy to initially hook then loose traction once you get out 20ft or so, you will also find that the car handles down track horrible, the same thing is true with stock height and stock arms sometimes, it may hook, but car will feel very unstable up top(moving around). If you plan on running drag radial front coil overs are not the best choice, you will get better weight transfer and keeping the weight on the back tires with a stock type setup up front, unless you use really light springs. This is were testing is most needed, finding out how to hook these tires, all cars are different, there is no real answer as to what it BEST.

[D1-R Stocker]

Thanks for the tips. I already have all PA stuff up front so that is not the issue. Being that I already have the coil overs in front what would be a good starting point for spring rates or should I go with the 175's and see what happens? I guess this would fall under "test and tune" though. Thanks again.

[Jacsracing]

I had the 175 lbs in the front coilover setup (PA with QA1 struts/coils) and found them a bit too stiff. I dropped to 150s and they seem to work pretty good. They compress quite a bit when adjusting the ride height, leaving stored energy to push the front up. Depends on your car weight I would guess.

I think the issue of the fronts is in the shocks (struts) moreso than the spring type. In my case, the QA1s don't have the right valving and worse, they have less travel than stockers or Lakewoods. Set on full loose for the rise, I noticed our car was unloading the rear when first the front wheels go off the ground (shocks topped out), then the front end comes back down. I may put the Lakewoods back in with a coilover sleeve to allow more front end rise and to help keep the nose up longer.

John

[oRaNgeT-76]

It takes some time with alot of testing to get Drag Radial cars to hook and book to the "best"of their potential. I personally have had alot of success with a basic stock style front end suspension I run a 90-10 strut 4 cyl. front springs and a QA1 k-member with stock control arms. the only problem that i have found is that the car will keep the front end raised all the way down the track and never settles .....that affects the aerodynamics. I put a coil-over steup in the front .......but didnt like them at all ....swapped the stock stuff back in real fast.

Drag Radial Cars like to be set up like street cars. leave soft and hold on. just like an old school street race.

Alex