Big Stuff 3 Tech Support

[Sparky_wp]

Big Stuff 3 has developed a Tech Support Team for all Tuning and Electrical concerns.
Don Bailey (dcbailey@ameritech.net) (708) 870-3771 and Steve Petty (770) 616-6662 are supporting Big Stuff 3 for all tuning concerns.
Michael Browne (Sparky@wiresandpliers.com) at Wires & Pliers (http://www.wiresandpliers.com) (810) 229-9688, is supporting Big Stuff 3 for all Electrical Concerns.
Please feel free to contact one of us with any questions and/or concerns

[tony]

does anybody turn big stuff 3 systems close to binghamton ny 13901 thanks

[Sparky_wp]

Turn or Tune? I'm not quite sure what you mean by Turn...
If you tuning help, you can contact Steve or Don.

[Ben]

Don Bailey is gay. :D

[TbusaMike]

does anybody turn big stuff 3 systems close to binghamton ny 13901 thanks
Dan White over at White Racing and Marine Warren MI 586 756-3026

[Lazyone]

Does the Big Stuff 3 require the use of a crank trigger. I was told that it doesn't require one. Can anyone help clear this up? Thanks:confused:

[Sparky_wp]

Big Stuff 3 will support most Ignition types.

It can be configured to support Ford Thick Film (TFI), G.M. HEI with both internal Coil in Cap and external Coil, Buick Direct Ignition (DIS), G.M. Norhtstar Direct Ignition (DIS) and G.M. Optispark.
This is all done through the HEI 4 pin connector on the Harness.

Big Stuff 3 will support a Crank Trigger (IPU) through the Crank Trigger Wires on the Harness.

In addition, Big Stuff 3 can also be configured to support Coil On Plug for Both G.M. LS-1 and Mod Motor Ford.

John is currently working on Big Stuff 3 configurations for the LS-2 and LS-7, this should be relesed soon.

If you need help with support on your current setup, let me know. I would be willing to help with any questions and/or concerns you may have.
I hope this helps,
Sparky

[Lazyone]

Thanks for the reply Sparky. We are still in the process of installing the Gen 3. We hope to be ready to fire this thing up by the end of this week. Will see what happens. Thanks again.:)

[slowfive0]

Hello,

I have a BS3 system for my SBF that I'm getting ready to install. Looking at the instructions, it looks like I can use my Ford TPS & IAC? Is there any truth to this?

Secondly, do any of you guys have a good source for the connectors, terminals & weatherpacks so that I can install factory type connections?

Thanks for you help.

[Sparky_wp]

Yes you can use the TPS Sensor. If the IAC has the correct connector on it (Weather-Pack Square 4 Pin) then you should be able to use the IAC. If the connector is different, I should be able to supply you with the correct connector and the pin-out. Let me know.

As for the other connectors you are looking for, let me know what you need and I should be able to help you out.

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[slowfive0]

Will do. Thanks! :)

Yes you can use the TPS Sensor. If the IAC has the correct connector on it (Weather-Pack Square 4 Pin) then you should be able to use the IAC. If the connector is different, I should be able to supply you with the correct connector and the pin-out. Let me know.

As for the other connectors you are looking for, let me know what you need and I should be able to help you out.

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[ALLMTR50]

Im having problems getting the BS3 CD to load into my laptop, my computer says
"A file error occurred!
'Default.dsh' file is missing or corrupt!
would you like to save a default dash file now to fix this.
YES NO"
I have tried yes & no with no luck, any suggestions?
thanks,
Harry

[Don Bailey]

Im having problems getting the BS3 CD to load into my laptop, my computer says
"A file error occurred!
'Default.dsh' file is missing or corrupt!
would you like to save a default dash file now to fix this.
YES NO"
I have tried yes & no with no luck, any suggestions?
thanks,
Harry

Harry,

That is a pretty common problem. What happens is you did not extract the compressed BS3 files to the proper location. Find the zip file and extract the files to the C:\Program Files\BigStuff and then all will be good. Then reboot. One last hint, check the target on the shortcut to BigComm icon on the desktop. You need the Icon that is created in the C:\Program Files\BigStuff\BigComm folder and then right click on that icon and send to desktop as shortcut.

Don

[slowfive0]

SBF with Big Stuff 3 system. Can I have sequential fuel injection while using the stock TFI distributor? If so, how? Thanks.

[Sparky_wp]

The BS3 supports Sequential Fuel without the need for a cam Sync. All BS3 systems are configured with Sequential fuel with all of the different types of Ignition triggers that the BS3 supports, unless otherwise specified.

In order to support Individual Cylinder Timing you will need a cam sync reference. If you're not using Individual Cylinder Timing then just leave the Cam connector disconnected.

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[slowfive0]

Thank you. Is it getting it's reference from the PIP signal? I'm assuming it knows the position of #1 compression due to window configuration on the pickup wheel? Thanks again.

The BS3 supports Sequential Fuel without the need for a cam Sync. All BS3 systems are configured with Sequential fuel with all of the different types of Ignition triggers that the BS3 supports, unless otherwise specified.

In order to support Individual Cylinder Timing you will need a cam sync reference. If you're not using Individual Cylinder Timing then just leave the Cam connector disconnected.

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[Lazyone]

I need some information on what IAC solenoid to use with the Big Stuff 3. I was told that it was a GM piece. Can anyone shed some light on this. Thanks!

[possessed 1]

does anybody have a wiring diagram for the fuel pump wires ?? i am have some trouble with understanding how to hook the fuel pump up ..

thank you

Neil

[Sparky_wp]

I've posted the Instructions for the High Speed and Low Speed Fuel Pumps that are in the Big Stuff 3 Mannual.

http://home.comcast.net/~sparky007/Big_Stuff_3_Fuel_Pump_Instructions.pdf

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[slowfive0]

Hello,

I'm attempting to hook up my BS3 & MSD 6AL (SBF combo in 93 mustang). I understand how to hook up the GM style HEI connector (PIP, SPOUT, IGN GND) to my TFI (Ign module). I understand that I also need to provide ign power (Run/Start positions) to the TFI module. Here is where I'm confused. I need to provide a coil negative signal to the TFI module (5th spot down from top of diagram). It says to hook up the coil negative or "points input" to this spot, but how do I wire the white wire from the MSD and the white wire from the BS3? It says in the instructions not to use the white wire (BS3) if I'm using a factory type ignition, but then says you should hook up the MSD to it. That being said, if I have the white wires from the MSD and BS3 hooked together and hooked up to the negative side of the coil.....IS that right? Thanks for your help.

[Sparky_wp]

The Coil – on the TFI module in an OE application provides the Ground signal to the Coil (Ignition Power is supplied on the Coil + side), every time this signal is sent the Coil fires.

You are adding a Big Stuff 3 system and a MSD 6-AL. You will not use the White wire (labeled “Points”), on the Big Stuff 3 System. Your particular application will involve running a wire from the Coil – signal on the TFI module to the White wire on the MSD-6-AL (See Diagram Below).

I hope this helps,
Sparky


http://home.comcast.net/~sparky007/Ford_TFI.bmp

[slowfive0]

Ok, that makes sense.

I was noticing on your diagram, you have "START" power applied to pin 4 (like the factory does), but the BS3 instructions don't show that terminal having power applied to it???? Do I need to provide "START" power to it? Obviously, this would mean B+ in the crank position ONLY. Thanks for the clarification.

Last question: Wired this way, Will I have "Sequential" fuel injection? Thanks again.



The Coil – on the TFI module in an OE application provides the Ground signal to the Coil (Ignition Power is supplied on the Coil + side), every time this signal is sent the Coil fires.

You are adding a Big Stuff 3 system and a MSD 6-AL. You will not use the White wire (labeled “Points”), on the Big Stuff 3 System. Your particular application will involve running a wire from the Coil – signal on the TFI module to the White wire on the MSD-6-AL (See Diagram Below).

I hope this helps,
Sparky


http://home.comcast.net/~sparky007/Ford_TFI.bmp

[Sparky_wp]

I would adhure to the Big Stuff 3 Instructions and wire it the way the Big Stuff 3 Mannual explains.

The Big Stuff 3 System is run Sequential, unless otherwise specified.

[slowfive0]

I understand that the BS3 is sequential, but I was somewhat confused by the earlier post (see below). According to that post, to support individual cylinder timing, you need the BS3 cam sensor hooked up. However, for sequential injection, the computer must know the position of the camshaft as well---it gets that from the distributor. The different size window in the distributor is how the computer knows where the cam position is. This is the same function as the newer cars--just done differently (cam sensor on newer cars). If that is the case why wouldn't the "individual cylinder timing" feature work when the system is just wired via the TFI?

Not trying to be a pain, just trying to understand what the system is capable of given my system setup. Thanks for all your help!!! :)

<<<<<<<The BS3 supports Sequential Fuel without the need for a cam Sync. All BS3 systems are configured with Sequential fuel with all of the different types of Ignition triggers that the BS3 supports, unless otherwise specified.

In order to support Individual Cylinder Timing you will need a cam sync reference. If you're not using Individual Cylinder Timing then just leave the Cam connector disconnected.

I hope this helps,
Sparky
__________________
Wires & Pliers
Michael Browne
8415 McClements Rd
Brighton, MI. 48114
810-229-9688
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I would adhure to the Big Stuff 3 Instructions and wire it the way the Big Stuff 3 Mannual explains.

The Big Stuff 3 System is run Sequential, unless otherwise specified.

[swilldup]

you dont need the cam sensor for the fuel because the it just adds it by incresing that particular injector by the percent that you tell it to...the injectors are hrdwired to the ecu so it knows which is which...but the timing,the ecu has to know where the #1 cyl is.....

[TIM]

Im looking to get a system for a customers car, who is a dealer??

[Sparky_wp]

I am a dealer for Big Stuff 3, Race-Pak and the NLR AMS-1000 Boost Controller.

Please feel free to contact me.

Sparky

[TIM]

Thanks, I will call you tomorrow.

[Lazyone]

In reference to running the BS3 in sequential mode, where do you get the cam sync reference from? I assume you have to plug in the cam connector, but where? We tried to fire our car up with the cam connector unplugged. The car popped and banged like wartime in a third world country. Pulled the plugs, they were soaking wet which explains all of the back fire/popping when trying to start the car. Any clarification would greatly be appreciated.:confused:

[slowfive0]

If you're talking SBF, I believe the cam reference is obtained from the TFI module (factory setup). More specifically the PIP signal (please correct me if I'm wrong). There is a trigger wheel inside the distributor with windows. One of the windows is bigger or smaller (I forget). The distributor will make one complete revolution (fire all 8 plugs) in the time that the crankshaft makes 2 revolutions. Based off that window, the pcm knows when # 1 cylinder is at TDC on compression and when it should fire the # 1 injector (Sequential Injection). Obviously, once it knows when to fire #1, the rest fall right in line.

This is what I don't understand---if BS3 knows where # 1 TDC compression is based off the PIP signal, then why can't it control individual cylinder timing. Same difference I would think? Now maybe BS3 doesn't know or use that signal like the factory??? Maybe it just fires each injector once per cylinder per crankshaft revolution regardless of whether or not the cylinder is on compression or exhaust??? Thanks to all the feedback so far. Keep them coming guys.



In reference to running the BS3 in sequential mode, where do you get the cam sync reference from? I assume you have to plug in the cam connector, but where? We tried to fire our car up with the cam connector unplugged. The car popped and banged like wartime in a third world country. Pulled the plugs, they were soaking wet which explains all of the back fire/popping when trying to start the car. Any clarification would greatly be appreciated.:confused:

[slowfive0]

Thanks for the input Dale. Take a look at my reply (I think the post just before this one). What's your thoughts on that? :confused: Maybe I should just go buy the crank trigger and distributor and call it a day.....Of course, I better find a place to sleep (married) first! LMAO!!!

you dont need the cam sensor for the fuel because the it just adds it by incresing that particular injector by the percent that you tell it to...the injectors are hrdwired to the ecu so it knows which is which...but the timing,the ecu has to know where the #1 cyl is.....

[Sparky_wp]

I forwarded this post to Don Bailey, he is returning from Cecil County.

I asked him to shed some light on the issue.

[slowfive0]

Thanks Michael. Hopefully, this post can not only help me out, but help some others as well. Take care. :cool:

I forwarded this post to Don Bailey, he is returning from Cecil County.

I asked him to shed some light on the issue.

[swilldup]

don can help you more than i...he is very smart with the bs3,he is the one that explained it to me.....just give him a day or 2 to respond...but if it were me,id do the crank trigger and dist...

[slowfive0]

I would love to put a crank trigger on there, but it's a fine line between marriage and divorce.....:D

don can help you more than i...he is very smart with the bs3,he is the one that explained it to me.....just give him a day or 2 to respond...but if it were me,id do the crank trigger and dist...

[Lazyone]

I'm in the same boat as slowfiveo, but I gotta tell ya, the single life is starting to look pretty good again:p

[Lazyone]

I was thinking along the same lines. If the PIP is working, the BS# should be ok without having to use a crank trigger.

[slowfive0]

LMAO!!!! I remember when I was single and in college, I would sacrifice food, luxurys, wineing and dining girls, etc (NOT BEER THOUGH ;-D ) to buy car parts! :D Getting married with kids has a way of changing your priorities, but unfortunately doesn't take that desire away (this addiction we all call a Hobby!) :confused:

I'm in the same boat as slowfiveo, but I gotta tell ya, the single life is starting to look pretty good again:p

[Lazyone]

Amen bro! But when you boil it down, I guess it's cheaper to keep her! :)

[slowfive0]

LOL!!!! No Doubt! :D

Amen bro! But when you boil it down, I guess it's cheaper to keep her! :)

[slowfive0]

ttt---thanks for the support guys! :)

I forwarded this post to Don Bailey, he is returning from Cecil County.

I asked him to shed some light on the issue.

[bigkahuna]

im in the process of tuning my big stuff3, i have a couple of questions. when wiring up the injector harness A and H are already installed on the harness would B be 2nd cylinder in the firing order and C would be the 3rd cylinder inthe firing order and so on and so on ? on the fuel pump wires do you use both neg and pos or just one , i connected both wires to the relay the fuel pump wouldnt go on ? we loaded a base program in it the car fired right up , under boost the car leans out no matter how much fuel we add . i watched the fuel pressure as we started accelerating it doesnt drop it rises under boost , i have 160lb injectors . i had a piggy back computer in the car before i didnt have these problems before , WOT throttle the car ran great , i just didnt like the driveablity at part throttle so i figured with dfi it would be better. thanks any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Sparky_wp]

What Engine are you working with Ford or Chevy?
The Injector wires are not pinned into the 10 Pin Connector in Firing Order they are pinned in numerical order.
Depending which Engine you are working with will dictate how the injector harness is pinned. The Black/White Wire Injector Connector needs to be on Injector #1 and the Purple/White Injector Connector needs to be on Injector # 8.
Whichever wire color is on Injector #2 needs to go into Pin B of the 10 pin Connector, Injector #3 goes into Pin C of the 10 Pin Connector, follow this format until all the Wires are populated into the 10 Pin Connector. Then input the Firing Order into the Big Stuff 3 Program, this is found under the “Configuration” on the Toolbar.

The High Speed Fuel Pump (Labeled H.S.F.P.) and the Low Speed Fuel Pump (Labeled L.S.F.P.) Wires are two separate circuits.
The Low Speed Fuel Pump supplies a Ground Signal to the Fuel Pump Relay, this is for the Fuel Pump that will run at all times while the Engine is running. An additional Fuel Pump can be wired in for extra fuel supply for boost applications. This is the Wire Labeled H.S.F.P. This wire supplies a Power Signal to an additional Fuel Pump Relay and is configured within the Big Stuff 3 Program under “Configuration”.
You cannot hook the both of these wires to one relay.

The other issues you are having are tuning related issues. Don Bailey would be a good source for these, you can E-mail him at dcbailey@ameritech.net, I will forward this post to him.

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[bigkahuna]

I have a smallblock ford. injector 1 is cylinder 1, injector 2 would be cylinder2, injector 3 would be cylinder3, and so on and so on. im assuming thats what you mean. thanks for your help

[Don Bailey]

we loaded a base program in it the car fired right up , under boost the car leans out no matter how much fuel we add . i watched the fuel pressure as we started accelerating it doesnt drop it rises under boost , i have 160lb injectors . i had a piggy back computer in the car before i didnt have these problems before , WOT throttle the car ran great , i just didnt like the driveablity at part throttle so i figured with dfi it would be better. thanks any advice would be greatly appreciated.

The base program is not intended to plug an play. You need to tune the car. The drivability is only as good as the tuner. I applaud all the do-it-yourself guys who learn how to tune. To me its the best part of a stand-alone, that you can do your own adjusting and get the results you want. However, if you believed that you could load a base map and be close, well its not going to happen. Take some logs and see it you can figure out whats going on. There are many knowledgable BS3 tuners and tons of DIY guys who have gone through this process. I think you'll get a handle on it quickly. If that isn't right for you, then you may wish to contact the retailer you purchased the BS3 system from and find out what kind of support they can lend.

Don Bailey

[slowfive0]

Attention Don,

Sorry for the HUGE post :eek: , but just trying to consolidate my original questions. Sparky said you might be able to help. Thank you for any assistance you can provide. Here goes……..

I'm attempting to hook up my BS3 & MSD 6AL (SBF combo in 93 mustang).

1st question, I need to provide a coil negative signal to the TFI module (5th spot down from top of diagram). For clarification, since I'm using the factory TFI ignition, I should be hooking up the white wire (from my MSD 6AL) to it and I should NOT be hooking up the white wire from the BS3 to it. Is this correct?


__________________________________________________ ______________________
2nd question, I was noticing on the diagram that Sparky provided that there is "START" power applied to pin 4 (like the factory does), but the BS3 instructions don't show that terminal having power applied to it???? Do I need to provide "START" power to it? Obviously, “START” would mean B+ in the crank position ONLY.

__________________________________________________ ______________________
3rd question, with the system wired this way, will I have "Sequential" fuel injection?
I understand that the BS3 is sequential fuel injection system, but I was somewhat confused by the earlier post (see below). According to that post, to support individual cylinder timing, you need the BS3 cam sensor hooked up. This doesn’t make sense to me because for sequential fuel injection, the computer must know the position of the camshaft too---it gets that info from the distributor. The different size window in the distributor is how the computer knows where the cam position is. This window serves the same purpose with regards to injector timing as the camshaft position sensor does on newer cars. If this is the case why wouldn't the "individual cylinder timing" feature work when the system is just wired via the TFI?

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<The BS3 supports Sequential Fuel without the need for a cam Sync. All BS3 systems are configured with Sequential fuel with all of the different types of Ignition triggers that the BS3 supports, unless otherwise specified.

In order to support Individual Cylinder Timing you will need a cam sync reference. If you're not using Individual Cylinder Timing then just leave the Cam connector disconnected.

I hope this helps,
Sparky>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

__________________________________________________ ______________________
In reference to the post by “Lazyone” (see below), here was my post.
If you're talking SBF, I believe the cam reference is obtained from the TFI module (factory setup). More specifically the PIP signal (please correct me if I'm wrong). There is a trigger wheel inside the distributor with windows. One of the windows is bigger or smaller (I forget). The distributor will make one complete revolution (fire all 8 plugs) in the time that the crankshaft makes 2 revolutions. Based off that window, the pcm knows when # 1 cylinder is at TDC on compression and when it should fire the # 1 injector (Sequential Injection). Obviously, once it knows when to fire #1, the rest fall right in line.

Final question:
This is what I don't understand---if BS3 knows where # 1 TDC compression is based off the PIP signal, then why can't it control individual cylinder timing. Same difference I would think? Now maybe BS3 doesn't know or use that signal like the factory??? Maybe it just fires each injector once per cylinder per crankshaft revolution regardless of whether or not the cylinder is on compression or exhaust??? Maybe it uses some other logic like “Compression Sense” ignition where it doesn’t need the camshaft position sensor?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LazyoneIn reference to running the BS3 in sequential mode, where do you get the cam sync reference from? I assume you have to plug in the cam connector, but where? We tried to fire our car up with the cam connector unplugged. The car popped and banged like wartime in a third world country. Pulled the plugs, they were soaking wet which explains all of the back fire/popping when trying to start the car. Any clarification would greatly be appreciated.


Not trying to be a pain, just trying to understand what the system is capable of given my system setup and how it works. Thanks for all your help!!! Best regards!

[tony]

hi is there anybody close to binghamton ny that tunes big stuff 3 or possiably going to ford motorsport nationals in reading pa. any help would be great thanks tony

[tony]

hi is there anybody close to binghamton ny that tunes big stuff 3 or possiably going to ford motorsport nationals in reading pa. any help would be great thanks tony

[slowfive0]

The BS3 instructions don't show anything wired into pin 4 of the TFI module, yet the diagram you posted shows a "crank" input wired to pin 4???? I have a factory EVTM (wiring diagram) and it also shows a crank input to pin 4.

Which way should I wire it? Thanks.

Ok, that makes sense.

I was noticing on your diagram, you have "START" power applied to pin 4 (like the factory does), but the BS3 instructions don't show that terminal having power applied to it???? Do I need to provide "START" power to it? Obviously, this would mean B+ in the crank position ONLY. Thanks for the clarification.

Last question: Wired this way, Will I have "Sequential" fuel injection? Thanks again.

[swilldup]

hi is there anybody close to binghamton ny that tunes big stuff 3 or possiably going to ford motorsport nationals in reading pa. any help would be great thanks tony
i know don bailey is going....im sure he'd help you out for a fee....

[Lazyone]

Just got a crank trigger for my big Stuff 3 set up. Running a 347 with a XX trim. Question: Is there a reference as to what the total timing should be? I know this system is adjustable, just trying to get a baseline to get this thing started. Thanks everybody!:confused:

[slowfive0]

Hey guys,

Disregard my previous posts. I screwed up. I was thinking that I could get technical help here. Obviously, my questions are stupid or not important enough. Anyone that knows me, will tell you I'm a stand up guy who is willing to help anyone. I'm a good guy looking for a little help. I don't think my posts were that far out there. Sorry to waste everyones time (including my own). No bad feelings, would have appreciated some responses to my latest questions. Oh well.
:rolleyes:

The BS3 instructions don't show anything wired into pin 4 of the TFI module, yet the diagram you posted shows a "crank" input wired to pin 4???? I have a factory EVTM (wiring diagram) and it also shows a crank input to pin 4.

Which way should I wire it? Thanks.

[Sparky_wp]

Slowfive0,

Don and I have both answered numerous repeat posts for you. I have even attached diagrams and explained how to hook up the 4 Pin Distributor connector. Even after I answered your questions you go and ask Don all the same questions again. Why?

1st question, I need to provide a coil negative signal to the TFI module (5th spot down from top of diagram). For clarification, since I'm using the factory TFI ignition, I should be hooking up the white wire (from my MSD 6AL) to it and I should NOT be hooking up the white wire from the BS3 to it. Is this correct?

The Coil – on the TFI module in an OE application provides the Ground signal to the Coil (Ignition Power is supplied on the Coil + side), every time this signal is sent the Coil fires.

You are adding a Big Stuff 3 system and a MSD 6-AL. You will not use the White wire (labeled “Points”), on the Big Stuff 3 System. Your particular application will involve running a wire from the Coil – signal on the TFI module to the White wire on the MSD-6-AL (See Diagram Below).


As for the TFI application, follow the Big Stuff 3 directions and don’t worry about the Start Pin, the TFI is no longer controlling the Ignition. If the Big Stuff 3 is supplied with an ignition signal both with key on and in the crank position on the wire labeled “ignition” that is all that is needed.

3rd question, with the system wired this way, will I have "Sequential" fuel injection?
I understand that the BS3 is sequential fuel injection system, but I was somewhat confused by the earlier post (see below). According to that post, to support individual cylinder timing, you need the BS3 cam sensor hooked up. This doesn’t make sense to me because for sequential fuel injection, the computer must know the position of the camshaft too---it gets that info from the distributor. The different size window in the distributor is how the computer knows where the cam position is. This window serves the same purpose with regards to injector timing as the camshaft position sensor does on newer cars. If this is the case why wouldn't the "individual cylinder timing" feature work when the system is just wired via the TFI?


The BS3 supports Sequential Fuel without the need for a cam Sync. All BS3 systems are configured with Sequential fuel with all of the different types of Ignition triggers that the BS3 supports, unless otherwise specified.


The PIP will in fact support a Cam Sync so you will be able to use Individual Cylinder Timing.

Don and I both take time out of our day to help support these systems as a courtesy, we also do this for a living. I don't mind helping clearing up some confusion and send people in the right direction. If the installation is still not clear and there is still some confusion about how to install the system on your part. I would advise you on hiring one of us to come in and install the system for you.

John has done a great job putting an instruction manual together that does a great job of supporting the installation of his product. Furthermore, both Don and I have given this topic attention and support. I also know Don has PMed you about this as well.
If you’re looking for one of us to take you by the hand and tell you detail by detail how to install the system, then call one of us and make an appointment.

Sparky

[Sparky_wp]

Lazyone,
This link should help explain the IPU set-up process.


https://home.comcast.net/~sparky007/Big_Stuff_3_IPU_Setup.pdf (https://home.comcast.net/~sparky007/Big_Stuff_3_IPU_Setup.pdf)

Please let me know if this helps or if you need further help.
Sparky

[slowfive0]

1st off, I'll start off by saying thank you for addressing my concerns. I'm not trying to start a pissing match here and I really do appreciate the help you guys provide. I wasn't trying to second guess your opinion and if it appeared that way, I apologize. The diagram you provided was helpful, but it did show a start signal to terminal 4. The BS3 instructions did not. That discrepancy was one of things I was questioning. I was very patient as you guys are doing this on your own time for the racers, IT IS APPRECIATED! Trust me :) but I hadn't got a response on some of my "clarifications" and wanted to move forward. After a few "ttt's", etc. I got a little frustrated.

Again, there is no need to start a pissing war over this. Thank you for your help. BTW, this is how I ended up wiring it up, so that is good. I'm looking forward to running it. Best regards.

Slowfive0,

Don and I have both answered numerous repeat posts for you. I have even attached diagrams and explained how to hook up the 4 Pin Distributor connector. Even after I answered your questions you go and ask Don all the same questions again. Why?




As for the TFI application, follow the Big Stuff 3 directions and don’t worry about the Start Pin, the TFI is no longer controlling the Ignition. If the Big Stuff 3 is supplied with an ignition signal both with key on and in the crank position on the wire labeled “ignition” that is all that is needed.





The PIP will in fact support a Cam Sync so you will be able to use Individual Cylinder Timing.

Don and I both take time out of our day to help support these systems as a courtesy, we also do this for a living. I don't mind helping clearing up some confusion and send people in the right direction. If the installation is still not clear and there is still some confusion about how to install the system on your part. I would advise you on hiring one of us to come in and install the system for you.

John has done a great job putting an instruction manual together that does a great job of supporting the installation of his product. Furthermore, both Don and I have given this topic attention and support. I also know Don has PMed you about this as well.
If you’re looking for one of us to take you by the hand and tell you detail by detail how to install the system, then call one of us and make an appointment.

Sparky

[Sparky_wp]

Slow,
I was only trying to provide you with clear accurate information and I was trying to make a valid effort to help you. I apologize for being rude. I wasn’t trying to turn this into a pissing match either.

I understand your frustration. It can be quite aggravating when you spend good money on a product and some unclear direction prevents you from getting the project finished.
The internet can be a good source for finding answers quickly and it can also be deceiving, beware of the opinions.
When I am asked questions via phone, email, message boards, etc, I do my best to provide clear accurate information. I understand these EFI systems electrically and electrical systems quite well. I also understand the way things are explained in Manuals sometimes can be a bit unclear and/or confusing when what you’re working with is new and/or unfamiliar.
Most of the time when I’m presented with a question, the person asking is already irritated and is frustrated and just needs some clear definition. I don’t usually post opinions, because they are debatable. I like to provide the correct answer.

Although it was never brought up, the dealer that you bought the system from should have been responsible for answering the questions and/or concerns you were unclear with. That is the responsibility of the dealer. If you asked the dealer for support and where not given any, we need to know that too.

Keep us posted on how the system works out for you, it should fire right up. If you have any other questions and/or concerns please let us know.

Best Regards,
Sparky

[slowfive0]

Thanks Sparky! :cool: I really want you guys to know that what you are doing is greatly appreciated. I try to help people out when I can, but I certainly don't support my own forum. That is big task!!! Kudos to you and Don!!! My dealer was in the process of moving and was unavailable for a time. Once they were back up and running, it seemed like they were pretty backed up.

To be honest, I'm sure many of your dealers are very knowledgeable people, but I think it would be correct in me saying that they don't have the in depth knowledge like you two guys. Obviously, they can get the answer though. Thanks again for your help. Take care.

Slow,
I was only trying to provide you with clear accurate information and I was trying to make a valid effort to help you. I apologize for being rude. I wasn’t trying to turn this into a pissing match either.

I understand your frustration. It can be quite aggravating when you spend good money on a product and some unclear direction prevents you from getting the project finished.
The internet can be a good source for finding answers quickly and it can also be deceiving, beware of the opinions.
When I am asked questions via phone, email, message boards, etc, I do my best to provide clear accurate information. I understand these EFI systems electrically and electrical systems quite well. I also understand the way things are explained in Manuals sometimes can be a bit unclear and/or confusing when what you’re working with is new and/or unfamiliar.
Most of the time when I’m presented with a question, the person asking is already irritated and is frustrated and just needs some clear definition. I don’t usually post opinions, because they are debatable. I like to provide the correct answer.

Although it was never brought up, the dealer that you bought the system from should have been responsible for answering the questions and/or concerns you were unclear with. That is the responsibility of the dealer. If you asked the dealer for support and where not given any, we need to know that too.

Keep us posted on how the system works out for you, it should fire right up. If you have any other questions and/or concerns please let us know.

Best Regards,
Sparky

[Israel Sweeney]

Maybe stupid question but where are the forced induction guys placing
there IAT sensor from there BS3 or others?
Like in the intake trac before throttle body?
Or before blower?

Thanks
Israel Sweeney

[Sparky_wp]

The Majority of the forced induction set-ups that I have worked on, the IAT is usually located either at the elbow or in the Intake just under the elbow (Cast Intake), in the front or rear of either.
On a sheet-metal intake I have seen them in a variety of places which include but are not limited to, the front of the plenum, the bottom of the plenum or the back of the plenum.

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[Israel Sweeney]

Thanks I appreciate the help.
Iz

[Don Bailey]

Whatever you do, please run an IAT sensor. Several blower non-intercooled cars have melted the sensor and then not run one. The result is terrible. The IAT sensor is a mandatory part of the calibration for determining the VE of the engine. As the ECU calculates air density based on MAP and IAT among other things. Not using an IAT results in the ECU thinking the inlet air temp is -14.8*F. I prefer the IAT in the intake track somewhere below the throttle blades.

DCB

[Israel Sweeney]

Ahh I didnt think about the non-intercooler and the intake trac temps.
I am non-intercooled. You think I should go in the intake manifold or in the
elbow going into the T/B
thanks
Israel Sweeney

[Israel Sweeney]

maybe I should elaborate on that, you said you like to mount them below the throttle blades better. so On a typical mustang style intake i think the number 2 intake runner is threaded for that sensor? So what chances do you give me in not melting it there with an XX-trim:)
Thanks Guys
Iz

[Don Bailey]

In the elbow is where most mount them. You will melt the sensor so buy a few. If you wish to mount the sensor under the hood and not in the intake track that's fine too but it requires a whole different tune-up (and I'm not telling).

[Israel Sweeney]

Ahh dam to bad your so far away. Id just bring it to ya for the tune up:)
Thats where its at now zip tied off to the injector harness. So Ill be melting them dam things great another good excuse to buy and liquid IC...
Thanks alot for the help wish I could twist your arm on the tune but I understand and I appreciate the help and advise
thanks again guys
Iz

[TbusaMike]

Hey guys,

Disregard my previous posts. I screwed up. I was thinking that I could get technical help here. Obviously, my questions are stupid or not important enough. Anyone that knows me, will tell you I'm a stand up guy who is willing to help anyone. I'm a good guy looking for a little help. I don't think my posts were that far out there. Sorry to waste everyones time (including my own). No bad feelings, would have appreciated some responses to my latest questions. Oh well.
:rolleyes:... Hey... The best guy in the land would be Dan White of White Racing and Marine 586 756-3026 aft 1pm Mon-Fri or BigTurbo1@aol.com:)

[Sean Knighton]

Big Stuff 3 has developed a Tech Support Team for all Tuning and Electrical concerns.
Don Bailey (dcbailey@ameritech.net) (708) 870-3771 and Steve Petty (770) 616-6662 are supporting Big Stuff 3 for all tuning concerns.
Michael Browne (Sparky@wiresandpliers.com) at Wires & Pliers (http://www.wiresandpliers.com) (810) 229-9688, is supporting Big Stuff 3 for all Electrical Concerns.
Please feel free to contact one of us with any questions and/or concerns
I've read this thread and found it helpful, I'll be setting up my first standalone EFI setup( BS3) to race with, and will, no doubt, be calling you all with some questions. Just wanted to say thanks and I look forward to learning more about this great system. Gotta love that UltraDash attachment too.

[chip provenza]

I just got a new computer where can I go to download the bigstuff program since their web site is down.I lost my disk so that is not an option.The disk I had was the the very first version anyway.

[Don Bailey]

Chip,

Your BS3 dealer should be able to send you a replacement disk. Where did you purchase your system?

If your in a jam call me.

DCB
(708) 870-3771 cell

[slowfive0]

Well, I thrashed for the last few weeks and finished my car. The car started right up as well! :) This system kicks a$$!!!!!

However, I have a problem. My air fuel ratio is always at 14.5-14.6:1. The desired is currently at 13.5:1. I can change the fuel table and the car will respond accordingly, but the actual air fuel value never changes. As a test I removed the O2 sensor from the exhaust and plugged it back in. Turned the key on......nothing. Usually, they will get red hot. I started to do some voltage checks and an inspection of the terminals. I found 2 problems. 1st one of the terminals tangs (gray wire) was bent a little at the entry canal. Two of the other wires (red and white) came right out of the back of the connector with little to no effort as a result of poor pin crimps.

I thought BINGO!!! I have access to all of GM's special tools and their terminal repair kits so I went to work, got a release tool and some terminals. Came back and fixed those and still nothing. The O2 will get warm at best. I did a pin drag and they are all good. I also ckd the other wires (pin crimps, etc).

Does anyone have the voltages I should be seeing at the O2? I've worked my tail off these past few weeks (actually took 5 days of vacation and worked 2 days and nights straight through without sleep) to make a track rental we have tomorrow. I'm going to be real bummed if I can't resolve this tonight. Still have about 6 hours before I'm supposed to leave.

Appreciate any help you can offer. Regards...

[Don Bailey]

There is a built-in diagnostic for the O2. Please load RUEGOR into your dash. This is the right UEGO sensor. With the ignition on and the sensor reading you should see the sensor read approximately 80. Please make sure the sensor is grounded well. Sometimes the exhaust doesn't ground as well as one would think. Finally, remember that you adjust the temp and gain for the O2 correction under the Aif Fuel ratio tab, then select AFR Parameters. You must achieve the minimum, RPM, and coolant temp for the O2 to start making corrections.

FYI the off RPM must always be lower then the on RPM. So on at 600 RPM and off at 500 RPM, with a min coolant temp of 145 is a fine place for someone to begin.

Good luck,

DCB

[slowfive0]

Thanks Don. I'll give her a try. BTW, I did try another wideband sensor and I ckd the pins at the pcm. All look good, so hopefully it is something more simple like you've listed here. I'll let you know what I find----Thanks again!!!!

There is a built-in diagnostic for the O2. Please load RUEGOR into your dash. This is the right UEGO sensor. With the ignition on and the sensor reading you should see the sensor read approximately 80. Please make sure the sensor is grounded well. Sometimes the exhaust doesn't ground as well as one would think. Finally, remember that you adjust the temp and gain for the O2 correction under the Aif Fuel ratio tab, then select AFR Parameters. You must achieve the minimum, RPM, and coolant temp for the O2 to start making corrections.

FYI the off RPM must always be lower then the on RPM. So on at 600 RPM and off at 500 RPM, with a min coolant temp of 145 is a fine place for someone to begin.

Good luck,

DCB

[slowfive0]

That did the trick! Thanks a BILLION!!!!!!!!!!! Take care....:cool:

Thanks Don. I'll give her a try. BTW, I did try another wideband sensor and I ckd the pins at the pcm. All look good, so hopefully it is something more simple like you've listed here. I'll let you know what I find----Thanks again!!!!

[carbed84]

hey,
small block ford, bigstuff, aerospace crank trigger, and msd dist. modded for the cam sensor.
how should i set up the cam sensor and crank trigger for this.
also some insight on the crank reference and inductive delay would be greatly appreciated.
thanks, bill

[Sparky_wp]

Please follow the link provided:
http://home.comcast.net/~sparky007/Big_Stuff_3_IPU_Setup.pdf

This should anwser any questions and support the IPU set-up.

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[carbed84]

kick a$$!!
thanks alot man, exactly what i needed.
bill

[Israel Sweeney]

If I set the crank trigger at 50 BTDC
The Cam Sync at 90 BTDC
And the Rotor at 20 BTDC with the cap-adapt
Is this acceptable?
Because theres no way I can get the Cam Sync with in
-10 to 20 degrees of crank reference with out buying a new reluctor ring per those instructions...?

Thanks for any infor given.. I guess im just not comprehending what the significance is of the 10 to 20 degree window before crank trigger?

Thanks again
Israel Sweeney

[Sparky_wp]

You really need to keep the Cam Sync within the 10 to 20 degree target. Getting outsdie the desired parameters will only add insult to injury later when tuning comes into play. Read the above posted .pdf

I followed this document recently, I had the Distributor in and out of the engine about 5 times, I had to pull the Distributor all apart to swap out the Reluctor, but after all the hassle. I had the Crank Reference at 50 Degrees, the Cam Sync at 60 Degrees and the Rotor Pahse at 20 Degrees. A little bit of extra work paid off by getting the whole set up correct.

My advise is to take the extra time and set it up properly, it will only reward you in the long run.

I hope this helps,
Sparky

[WLDHRSE]

I'm nearing the end of my switch from nitrous oxide to BS3 tuned turbo setup - 347/ 91mm on a fox coupe - and should be ready to fire it in a few weeks, but haven't purchased my ignition box yet because some say that a programmable box like the MSD 7531 would be best. But shouldn't I be able to do any necessary tuning/ programming with the BS3? Will I be sorry if I don't have the additional flexibility of a programmble ignition box? It seems a little redundant to have a programmable ignition along with a programmable ECM. Looking for a little input from all of you Mustang geniuses. Thanks in advance. :cool:

[Don Bailey]

The BS3 system, like all systems, has a points wire output. The White points wire from the BS3 can be hooked to any MSD ignition box by connecting it to the MSD's white points wire. You do not have to have a MSD 7531, however, it is the most likely the best ignition choice. You will have controll of your spark through the BS3 system, meaning timing retard or timing curves. Should you wish to do additional timing changes, via the 7531, that would be an option available to you in order to get your car down the track. Some people also choose to take advantage of the slew and rev limit functions in the MSD 7531. Do you need a 7531, No. Is it a nice option, Yes.

[WLDHRSE]

Thanks Don, that clears it up. I know which way to go now.

[befarrer]

Hi there, I am trying to get my friends car to run right. He is running a Big Stuff 3 ECM with an 03 4.6L Caddy Northstar and a 5 speed standard in a Fiero. I got the car to run, with some wiring changes but it wont rev past 2800RPM in gear, or 3400RPM in neutral. He bought the ecm and premade wiring harness from chrfab.com, and I have had to do a few wiring changes to get it to work, and I think the programming is all messed up. I was wondering if you could point me to a .big file for any northstar (preferably 00+), or a website that may help me. He is running a stock engine as far as mods, and using the sequential fuel injection and the coil on plug ignition. So far, I had to change the wiring for the crank and cam sensors, they are 3 wire sensors (12V+, data, and ground), and the ground wasnt hooked up right. Then his alternator wires were hooked up to the boost controlls on his ECM. Also, his wide band O2 sensor was not wired up, didnt even have the pins crimped on.

Thanks in advance,

Ben

[Sparky_wp]

The above post (#82) is being dicussed here: http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18382

Sparky

[toxic281]

I'm having some tuning issues w/BS3, mod motor COP. Are there any local tuners down in So. Fla?

[gnklr50]

I'm having some tuning issues w/BS3, mod motor COP. Are there any local tuners down in So. Fla?

i know bart tobener run's this setup on his renegade car... He's in Boca.. try emailing him pro50mech@aol.com

thanks

[toxic281]

Me: BS3 Mod motor COP (early prototype) 4.6L 91.5mm turbo.
I have gone to the track 5 times in the last month in an attempt to do my license runs. I have yet to make a full 1/8 run, forget about 1/4 mile. Every time I put it on the 2-step, it loads up real bad and won't go anywhere. I did have one decent run last week (I upped the 2-step so that it could not be reached) and ran real clean (A/F was 9.9-10.4). However, I was out of the groove, was drifting toward the wall and aborted before the 1/8. I did find that 1 of my 8 coils were bad. Repaced the coil and went back to the track last Wed. First run, forgot to up the 2-step to bypass (an anoying temporary band-aid) loaded-up before launch, just sputtered and would not do much (A/F went to 11.9???). Next run I did remember to up the 2-step (had my best 60 ft. by far) and then seemed to load up again (A/F shot up to 13.9!).
Thought I had loaded up the plugs so I changed them. Third run launched and sputtered before 60 ft. so I let off. A/F was at 12.9 Don't know what happened from 1 week to the next and why it leaned out so much. I actually talked to Meaney last week and sent the BS3 back for an "update". Could the MAP be going south? Thanks all.

[Project-roc]

After having BS3 a couple months now...we decided to take it out of the box to install. Where are you guys putting your ecu? This is in a 90 notch, full interior, street car. Also we were thinking about drilling the hole right below the throttle cable in the firewall, would that be an acceptable place? If not do I have to pull the dash and heater core/assembly out and drill the hole behind there? We really don't want to see the box in sight. Any suggestions?

[slowfive0]

I mounted mine in the factory EEC location. I was able to screw the rubber bumpers into a couple of the original holes, then locate the others. Hides behind the kick panel ok.

After having BS3 a couple months now...we decided to take it out of the box to install. Where are you guys putting your ecu? This is in a 90 notch, full interior, street car. Also we were thinking about drilling the hole right below the throttle cable in the firewall, would that be an acceptable place? If not do I have to pull the dash and heater core/assembly out and drill the hole behind there? We really don't want to see the box in sight. Any suggestions?

[toxic281]

I mounted mine to an aluminum plate, placed it close to the factory location. Welded a Dzus tab to the roll cage, and walla!