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View Full Version : anyone use the holley pro strip annihilator ignition?


jjohnson
04-11-2006, 04:25 PM
I know they stopped making them (not worried about that)but I have a line on a complete system NIB. I have not heard much about them other than what Holley claims. On paper they sound awsome and will be better then buying an msd 7al2 with all the add ons. So does anyone have first hand experiance with one. How is it, easy to use, reliable programing ect. Please let me know ASAP so I can dedice to buy or not.

thanks guys.

2 bottles
04-25-2006, 09:29 PM
I personally ran one. I loved the features and everything was simple and worked correctly but it only lasted a season before it crapped out on me. Save yourself the headache and go with the MSD stuff. Everyone I know that has ran it has had problems out of it. People have problems with the msd stuff too but there is tech support and parts available for them. Just my opinion.

jjohnson
04-26-2006, 07:17 AM
got a ton of possitive feedback on them from the other stang site, I even called the tech from holley said that most of the guys working there still use them. So I allready bought it last week, It looks great so I sure hope it last.

thanks.

Chris Crecelius
04-28-2006, 06:49 AM
The Holley ignition is still by far better than the current MSD Digital stuff. The only problems with the system is it's very voltage sensitive. Make sure you've got good batteries and keep them charged. There were also a few bad runs of voltage modules that had some issues. Other than that, I'd take it over anything out there now. I have lots of spare parts if you run across something you need.

Thanks.

jjohnson
04-28-2006, 07:59 AM
The Holley ignition is still by far better than the current MSD Digital stuff. The only problems with the system is it's very voltage sensitive. Make sure you've got good batteries and keep them charged. There were also a few bad runs of voltage modules that had some issues. Other than that, I'd take it over anything out there now. I have lots of spare parts if you run across something you need.

Thanks.

Thanks Chris, I will add you to my addres book in case I have any problems with it. Is there some sort of relay or voltage regulator I can or should put on it to help insure it last?

Jeff Swanson
04-28-2006, 08:04 AM
I used to run that ignition in my Stocker and it was great. Always heard about reliability issues, but mine worked flawlessly.

Chris Fillyaw
04-28-2006, 10:28 AM
The Holley ignition is still by far better than the current MSD Digital stuff. The only problems with the system is it's very voltage sensitive. Make sure you've got good batteries and keep them charged. There were also a few bad runs of voltage modules that had some issues. Other than that, I'd take it over anything out there now. I have lots of spare parts if you run across something you need.

Thanks.

Yeah, there low voltage protection is very aggressive. I bet below 10V, the ignition doesn't work.

Only had a problem on cars that sit and don't get the battery charged.

Chris Crecelius
04-28-2006, 09:15 PM
Thanks Chris, I will add you to my addres book in case I have any problems with it. Is there some sort of relay or voltage regulator I can or should put on it to help insure it last?

Not really. You shouldn't have any problems. There were a batch of voltage modules that would act funny when they got hot. If yours is one of those, it won't cause any problems unless you are running them on the street for a long period of time.

Make sure you've got the main power wire going to the battery. Don't use the same terminal you have the starter or other electrical stuff hooked to. Starters tend to hog the voltage while cranking, not leaving enough for the ignition to fire. Same with the ground. Don't share a common ground lug. Find a good chassis ground for it alone.

Also, keep the coil wires away from the pickup wires, especially if using a magnetic pickup. Route the coil wires through a seperate hole in the firewall than the pickup wires.

If you are using the Holley coil, make sure it has a second ground wire off the negative side to a good chassis ground, or to the block (if it's iron).

Mount the control module where you can see the LED's while sitting behind the wheel. Those lights will tell you exactly what's going on, especially the power and start lights.

Make sure you have the distributor phased properly. If you are programming a timing curve in it, or you are using retards. Check the rotor position at the minimum and maximum timing points to make sure it's going to fire the correct terminal.

That's all the issues that you should run into with it.